Wednesday, 21 September 2011

How to Drive In The City

Have you been driving in the city for most of your life? You're in a big shock once you drive in the city; the traffic is ten times worse, the roads are extremely narrow with tons of potholes. Parking is a massive pain not to mention expensive.
If you've been driving in a suburb you're probably spoiled by the nice big lanes and smooth roads. Streets in the suburbs of California sometimes have 5 or 6 lanes. You're going to be in for a shock because cities like L.A have many roads with only 2 lanes! Yes, the city has more people and the streets have less lanes! You can imagine the traffic and congestion; it can take half an hour just to travel a mile.
The key to parking in the city is to look for "street parking", these are the spaces without the meters. Be on the lookout for signs though, don't park there if the signs forbid and don't park at red curbs or if it says "truck loading only". Enforcement is strict and some places will not hesitate to tow your car! If you need to park in a garage or public parking structure expect to pay at least ten bucks. Meters are a pain because they are usually only good for two hours at a time and you have to keep coming back to put quarters in the meter.
Be prepared to parallel park in the city; parking spaces are extremely scarce and if you are lucky enough to find a spot chances are you'll have to parallel park so you better brush up on your parking skills before you arrive in the big city.
It's almost near impossible to make a u-turn in the city. You either have to make one illegally (which I don't recommend) or you have to go around the block which takes forever due to the traffic. In the suburbs it's so easy; you can u-turn pretty much everywhere and there are even signs which indicate when you can make one.
In the city you have those left turns where you have to move up three quarters of the way and yield to traffic and you can drive when it's clear or when the light turns red. There isn't much of that in the suburbs; you just turn when the "arrow" turns green. It's much more hectic and stressul in the city when you have to yield.
Yes, driving in the city can be difficult and complicated. Luckily most cities also offer excellent mass transit so you can get a day off when you don't feel like dealing with parking and traffic.

by : Jacqueline Star
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Protecting Motorcycles From Rain

If you enjoy owning a motorcycle, whether it's a street bike, Harley hog or dirt bike, it's in your best interest to provide heavy duty outdoor protection from foul weather and other hazards. Not every motorcycle owner has the luxury of a garage to store their bike during rain, winter and intensely hot days. And if they do have a garage usually a car or truck is given a priority when it comes to shelter. To make sure your motorcycle is in top condition consider using a poly tarp, motorcycle pocket or motorcycle bag to keep it safe from rain, intense UV sunlight, snow and wind.
Because of the design of motorcycles it leaves the bike at risk from foul weather. With exposed pipes, engines and instrument gauges a motorcycle can be easily damaged in strong winds, heavy rain, snow and other outdoor hazards. Rain is the most common hazard and to keep your bike safe consider covering it at night or during the day with a heavy duty poly tarp, outdoor portable garage or carport.
Depending on your budget you have a number of options for protecting a motorcycle from rain. The most economical is a simple poly tarp. Made from high quality polyethylene fabric materials a commercial grade poly tarp can provide sound protection for a motor bike when a storm rolls in. However, poly tarps are best as temporary shelters and should not be relied on to fully protect a motorcycle through a winter season or long rain period.
A better option for long-term bike storage is a portable garage or carport. More durable than a tarp cover and constructed from heavy duty aluminum and steel tube frames an outdoor portable shed or carport is ideal for winter storage or for keeping a motorcycle safe from seasonal rain and intense UV sunlight in the summer. Available in a wide variety of sizes and shapes, outdoor portable garages and carports offer serious long-term protection for motorcycles and will keep your bike safe from rain and other weather hazards including wind, hail and sleet.
If you can't afford a portable garage and want a little more protection than just a poly tarp, consider using a durable motorcycle pocket. Cycle pockets, or bags, are made from high quality polyethylene materials and are designed to eliminate moisture, dust and condensation by forming a secure pocket around the bike. Unlike a tarp that simply rests on the motorcycle a cycle pocket allows for more room under the shelter so air can flow through preventing mildew. With any of these storage options you will be able to keep your motorcycle safe from rain and other weather conditions.

by : kevin McLaughlin
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Motorcycle Maintenance

Whether you want to be a "Bad Boy", "Biker Dude", or "Biker Chick", you have to start somewhere. Of course you probably already know which motorcycle you want to get, but have you thought about what all you will need to do to take care of your motorcycle and to stay legal and safe on the road? Be sure that you know your state laws for motorcyclists, and how to maintain your new bike.
Every state in the US requires that you at least have minimum motorcycle insurance. Different insurance companies have different packages. You will want to think about how you will be using your motorcycle and what all you want your insurance to cover. If you ride it every now and then on the weekends, the minimum coverage may be just enough for you, however, if you plan to use your motorcycle as your main means of transportation, you are going to want more than the minimum coverage available. Also, in order to legal ride your motorcycle you need your Class M License. The can be obtained through your local DMV after taking the proper courses needed. You can go ahead and purchase a motorcycle from a dealership without proof of a license. They may not let you ride it home, but hook it to a trailer instead. Whichever the case may be, please stay safe and follow the law. Get your Class M License and state minimum motorcycle insurance. Having your license and insurance is important, but also taking care of your motorcycle is also very important. Even going over just the basics can keep you safe while you are cruising.
You will want to check your owner's manual to find out what type of oil you use and how often you should check it. This isn't the same for every bike, for some it depends on the make and model of your motorcycle. Just as different cars require different gas or oil. The average time to change your oil is possibly around every 3500 miles. If you aren't sure, check your owner's manual, ask a mechanic, or call the dealership and ask.
Tire pressure is also very important for maintaining a motorcycle. Your tire pressure can change for several reasons, the season, the temperature, humidity, and also your riding style. Air pressure can affect the way your bike rides, so you want to make sure that your tires have the right pressure. The proper tire pressure should be written on the sides of your tires, if you are not sure, check your owner's manual. If the tire looks dried out or is cracking, they are no longer safe to ride on. Also, check your chain and make sure it is well oiled and doesn't kink during a full rotation.
Another very important thing to check are you brakes and rotors. When you use your brakes, do you feel a pulsing or a grinding? If you feel a pulsing, it is possible that you need to get your rotors fixed or replaced. If you feel a grinding, this could mean that your brake pads are shot and need to be replaced or they will start to destroy your rotors. When you use your brakes, if it feels spongy, then you are probably in need of a new brake line.
Take just the basic steps to take care of your new or used motorcycle will help keep you and others on the road. Be sure to check your bike and repair anything that is broken after it has been idle for a while, for example after the winter, you will want to double check your oil, tires, and brakes before you take it out for you first spring or summer spin.

by : Liza Marie Andrews
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What Is a Smart Cell Charger?

An intelligent battery charger is another name for a microprocessor-controlled charger. These chargers are designed to work only with brainpower batteries from the same manufacturer. This is because the mind cells contain special microchips that are programmed to communicate with an intellect cell charger of the same brand.
Intelligent batteries are typically understood to be cells that are capable of complex functioning. The microchips in them help inform the user of its current state of charge (SoC) and state of health (SoH). They are popularly used in medical equipment, computer devices, video and digital cameras and military tools. As SoC and SoH are important to their functionality, noopsyche cells are natural matches for these devices. It's important to note that cells that simply inform a charger to recharge the battery to a certain level are not typically considered to be smart cells.
An intellectual battery charger is built to make charging precise and because of this, it is unlikely to suffer from overcharging, and trickle charges can be successfully maintained. Intelligent Batteries are equipped with microchips that work with a specific and corresponding charging unit. To make sure that smart cells are not damaged, consumers should always charge their cells with the same manufacturer's smart cell charger. Charging the battery with a foreign smart cell charger may result in the nullification of any free or purchased warranties that the consumer has on the battery.
Several types of intelligent cells may exist and some consumers may have to research their cells before deciding on a specific charger to purchase. Maintenance-free, Wet Cell (flooded), Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM), Gel Cell and Valve Regulated Lead Acid (VRLA) are some of the different types of intelligent cells that a consumer may have purchased. Documentation to these cells should be studied before investing in a charger. Business owners who sell battery chargers may often advise customers that one type of smart cell charger can work well with many different types of smart cells. However, mixing and matching intelligent cells and chargers may result in damage.
For consumers who are interested in charging cells and minimizing expenses, other options exist besides purchasing chargers. Those who are electronically-inclined may also consider building a smart cell charger on their own. Some knowledge of circuitry may be required to achieve this and building should not be attempted by the novice electrician or consumer. Charging cells this way may also result in voiding warranties or damaging the cell.
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History Of Hybrid Cars

The first problem with working out which was the first hybrid vehicle, is deciding what the term 'hybrid vehicle' means. For example, a barge being pulled by a horse with the current of the canal could be thought of as a hybrid vehicle. However, most individuals these days will agree that a true hybrid vehicle utilizes a 'rechargeable energy storage system' or an RESS.
For instance, this could define a vehicle that utilizes one kind of propulsion, such as an internal combustion engine as its main form of propulsion, while that engine recharges batteries that can also be used to power an electric engine.
I am sure that it will surprise 90% + of individuals to hear that the history of hybrid vehicles is almost as long as the history of automobiles themselves. Porsche is a famous make of expensive sports cars, but in 1898 Ferdinand Porsche, a young Czech student, designed the Loher-Porsche one-cylinder internal combustion engine.
However, this engine was utilized to drive an electric generator, the electricity from which was used to power electric motors which were attached to every of the four wheels. The petrol engine was used only to produce electricity for the electric motors in this early case.
This early hybrid was presented at the World Exhibition in Paris in 1900 and was capable of travelling at 35 mph (56 kph). In 1901, Porsche drove it himself to win the Exelberg Rally. After this they sold over 300 units of their early hybrid car. Mass production had not been thought of yet and rich people were still sceptical about the new, malodorous technology.
1959 was the next landmark in the history or hybrids because petrol was cheap and few people, if any, foresaw the future for the world and the environment. Anyway, the car developed, the Henney Kilowatt used the early transistors or those days to regulate the flow of electricity. This was the true precursor to contemporary hybrid cars.
One of the inventors of the Henney Kilowatt was Victor Wauk and he was involved in the process of experimenting with electric cars in the Sixties and Seventies. Occasionally, he is known as the Godfather of Hybrid Vehicles.
It is fairly remarkable, but the regenerative braking system used by contemporary hybrids to help recharge a hybrid's batteries was invented in 1978 by the electrical engineer, David Arthurs..
It then took until president Bill Clinton took the initiative to instigate the Partnership for a New Generation of Vehicles in 1993. It involved the Dept of Energy, Chrysler, ford, GM and one or two others. G. W. Bush replaced this program with his own FreedomCar Initiative in 2001.
This initiative was designed to finance extraordinarily risky or problematic projects for the development of hybrid cars. It has taken us more than 100 years to rejuvenate the initial hybrid concept and we only did that because we were compelled to do it
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Saturday, 17 September 2011

The World's Most Powerful V8

Intake System

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The variable intake system is die-cast from magnesium. It uses a streamlined internal design and a vertical arrangement of intake and exhaust ports. The two internal electronically-operated throttle flaps can be fully opened in 0.1 seconds, giving better response. The air intake is a dual-flow design with two hotwire airflow meters.

Valvetrain

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The 32 valves are operated by bucket tappets. The intake valves are 40mm in diameter and the exhaust valves 34mm. Valve clearances are adjusted hydraulically. All four camshafts are continuously variable over a range of 42 degrees with the camshaft timing variation controlled electro-hydraulically.

Block

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The block uses a closed-deck design with a main bearing bedplate. Cast into the alloy are steel components that improve strength and "ensure a reliable oil supply". The engine block and cylinder heads are of cast aluminium-silicon alloys (AlSi7 and AlSi17) with the cylinder walls coated with a twin wire arc spraying (TWAS) process. This results in extremely low friction and wear accompanied by outstanding long-term durability. AMG-Mercedes claim the coating is twice as hard as conventional iron liners.
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During the TWAS process, two metallic wires and an atomising gas are brought together in a coating unit. Passing a high voltage through the tips of the wires breaks the gas molecules down to form a plasma, and the wire tips begin to melt. The atomising gas removes molten metal from the wire tips and sprays these particles onto the cylinder walls to be coated, where they solidify. This is preceded by a high-pressure water jet which roughens the cylinder walls so that the individual sprayed particles adhere to the surface during the TWAS coating process. The cylinder walls are then honed. During this process, the micro-pores in the sprayed coating are partially exposed, which enables them to retain oil when the engine is running and ensure favourable lubrication of the pistons and piston rings.

Internals

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The crank is forged 42CRMo4V steel alloy and uses five crankshaft bearings and six counterweights. The counterweights feature heavy metal core plugs, which mean that they can be made significantly more compact. Two lightweight connecting rods forged by the cracking process are connected to each of the four crank pins. The pistons are cast alloy.

Intelligent Thermostat

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The temperature of the coolant is variably controlled. In the interests of optimal in-engine friction and fuel economy, the temperature of the coolant can for example be lowered to 80 degrees Celsius under partial load. Under full load conditions the temperature is raised to 100 degrees "within milliseconds" to achieve the best possible engine cooling. The thermostat controlling the coolant temperature receives its instructions from the engine management system.

Electronic Control

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All engine functions are controlled and executed by a Bosch ME 9.7 control unit. Fuel injection, ignition, the variable intake manifold, camshaft adjustment and variable cooling are all controlled. The microprocessor has 10,000 different characteristic maps and functions in its memory, and is able to carry out up to 70 million individual operations per second.

Emissions

The new AMG 6.3-litre eight-cylinder engine meets all current exhaust emission standards. Exhaust treatment begins in the air-gap-insulated manifolds, which have a wall thickness of only 1 millimetre. All four ceramic catalytic converters feature thin-wall substrates. A secondary air injection system leads to higher exhaust gas temperatures and supports the heating-up process. It appears that the management system uses the input of the oxygen sensors to form a feedback loop at all engine loads.

Testing

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Trials of the new AMG 6.3-litre eight-cylinder engine were conducted in two stages. The development work started with analyses of basic mechanical functions, the oil circuit, power characteristics with various intake duct and camshaft configurations, plus the definition of fuel injection quantities, fuel consumption and exhaust emission values – all these were studied on the dynamic simulation test benches at Mercedes-AMG. Engines with outputs exceeding 735 kW/1000 hp can be dynamically tested in this facility.
After completion of the basic work in Affalterbach, the first test vehicles equipped with the new AMG eight-cylinder engine were sent onto public roads and test tracks in all the climatic regions of the earth. These tests included:
High-altitude trials in Denver, Colorado (USA), Lesotho (South Africa) and Granada (Spain)
Heat trials in Death Valley, California (USA), Upington (South Africa), Idiada test track (Spain) and Phoenix, Arizona (USA)
Road trials in Los Angeles, California (USA)
Cold trials in Arctic Falls (Sweden)
Various test runs on the high-speed circuits in Nardo (Italy) and Papenburg (Germany)
Tests in the DaimlerChrysler wind tunnel
In addition, various endurance trials were carried out with the aim of simulating the engine’s entire operating life under the most extreme conditions:
Nürburgring north loop: The engine was tested under predominantly full load conditions on the world’s most demanding racetrack.
Mixed road endurance trials: Testing under everyday conditions. The vehicles were loaded to their gross vehicle weight and subjected to a defined test program on country roads, motorways and in city traffic.
Stress endurance trials at the DaimlerChrysler test site in Papenburg: Extreme acceleration and deceleration cycles under predominantly full load conditions, with high stresses on the oil circuit, cooling system and fuel supply.
Endurance trials in the hills of the Swabian Alb region: The vehicles were loaded to their gross vehicle weight and towed a two-tonne trailer. The route covered country roads with numerous uphill and downhill gradients, and subjected the engine, transmission and cooling system to very high stresses.
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Wednesday, 3 August 2011

How to Delete The File or Folder Permanently in Windows


When delete the file in windows, it move to the Recycle Bin, useful for avoid unwanted file deleteted or maybe oneday we still need.
But if you are sure the files no longer needed, or need for space in hard disk without go to the recycle bin,
there is nothing wrong if delete permanently.
Just Press and hold SHIFT key at the same time when you are deleting the file, the file will be deleted forever permanently.
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